Grigri Rigged Incorrectly.
Updated: Oct 8
By Jack Giesen, a near-miss climbing story
There I was, 40 ft off the ground, and I felt stupid. Did I even do a buddy check? How did I miss this?
Moments before, a person that I had just met at the gym was lead belaying me on a warm-up. He yelled up to me and informed me that the Grigri was rigged incorrectly.
During my years working at a climbing gym, I had taught dozens of people how to belay for the first time with the Grigri, and told them to avoid making this mistake. Now, I was 40ft off the deck, and a victim of it myself.
At the time I considered myself an experienced and safe climber. I'd been climbing all over the country, and had been on international climbing trips. I thought of myself as well-traveled in my relatively short 7 years in the sport. I had spent time trad climbing in the alpine, aid climbing in Yosemite, and lots of time sport climbing. I had taught classes in a climbing gym, and wrote the curriculum for my former employer's Gym to Crag class. I had climbed 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport.
I did not think this ‘beginner's mistake’ was going to happen to me.
I could have done a few things at that moment. Clip into one of the draws on the wall, hang onto a jug, and let the belayer take me off belay and put me back on correctly. But the only thing I could think of was to just start downclimbing. Fortunately, there were plenty of good holds around me, and it felt achievable to downclimb back to the ground.
On the ground, the belayer apologized profusely, and I apologized too for missing it during our buddy check period. With my tail between my legs, I packed up my bag and left the gym.
It took a few weeks for me to admit the mistake to my close friends. I expected to be met with criticism and snark. But instead found empathy. Everyone I eventually told about this near miss was quick to share an accident or near miss of their own that was also caused by “human factors.” I was relieved to know that these events can happen to anyone who ventures into the vertical world, and not just me. But wished there was more of a space to share them. To make learning and empathizing with these stories part of learning about climbing.
Jack Giesen: Poke -O-Moonshine in NY
Thank you for sharing the posts. It’s so important to share safety and share experiences of some of the most elite climbers, and bring awareness to detail and staying safe while rock climbing and ice climbing. I watched and was witness to one of the worlds best fall off El Capitan, not because Balin Miller was not experienced, but because he was the best alpinist and rock climber, one simple mistake or overlooking anything can cost a life.
I appreciate learning and all of the knowledge that the climbers give to help keep other climbers safe on the wall or ice
Thank you